Return to Archie's

The last full day of our trip proved to be something of a highlight, because the sun came out! 

From dawn till dusk we had bright clear blue sky. We headed straight for the beach and found a spot near Daiquiri Dick's, where we'd enjoyed our New Year's Eve celebration. We swam in the sea, soaked up the rays, listened to yet more drummers and trumpeters as they blasted their way long the shoreline, and then nipped in to the restaurant for lunch, where the waitress recognised us and even remembered Alexis's name. Back on the beach again, we bought a ring each from one of the wandering hawkers, as a memento of the trip, watched the brave souls taking off and landing on their parascending trips, and basked in the warm sun as it slowly dropped towards the hills over Caletas at the south east end of the bay.

We returned to the apartment to start packing, then went back out to enjoy our last dinner, returning to Archie's Wok. I hadn't noticed the first time I was there but on the back of the menu was an article all about Archie. He had been an Asian chef working on Santa Barbara in the 70s and had decided to up sticks for Mexico. He worked as a chef in local eateries and got to know the guy who was building John Huston's hideaway house in Caletas. After being introduced to Huston, Archie started cooking for him when he entertained his famous guests (Burton, Taylor et al). But Archie's big plans came together when he opened the Wok restaurant, and here we were, enjoying a speciality ying-yang Margeherita (with sake), fine Asian food and a glass of cool white wine in the open courtyard in the very same place that Archie started all those years ago.

Our last dinner was wonderful and capped off a great day. We'd seen the best of Puerto Vallarta, more than making up for the cloud and rain in the previous week, and we'd regained that sense of calm and well-being that results from a day in the sunshine.

Archie died in 1993, but the restaurant aims to maintain his high standards and welcoming atmosphere. It certainly worked for me, so I raised a small toast to Archie and to Puerto Vallarta.